Mt Elbrus - 2007 Summit report

Much of the success of Deshun's Elbrus summit in August 2007 was due to the experience and professionalism of
Pat Falvey's "Irish and Worldwide Adventures" who arranged, managed and led the expedition.
Sean Jackson, a fellow team member, recalls the expedition and, in particular, summit day:
Summit report by Sean Jackson - 22/08/07
Elbrus is a strange mountain; a huge volcanic carbuncle stuck on the north side of the majestic Caucasus fold mountains. These two very different geological formations are separated by a small glacial torrent on whose north banks are rocks completely different from those on the south bank.
Our attempt on the Summit on the 7th August, started at 0400 hours (although a couple of the fitter members of the group had started at 0200 hours) from the Pastukova Rocks. Head-torches were of limited use as we were blessed with a quarter-moon and dawn appeared around 0500 hours. I find it depressing to lift my head in the early stages of a trek when there just seems to be an endless vista out ahead, so with heads down and crampons fitted we trudged and zigzagged up a steep slope before starting the long, long traverse to take us between the East and West Summits to the Saddle which nestles between the final climbs to the peaks. The Saddle was reached at around 0930 hours – within our schedule – the sun was warming the slopes and all was well in the World! However it was now obvious that walking speeds were very different amongst the group so it was decided to split into three separate groups for the final “two hour” push to the Western Summit – which is 20 meters higher than the Eastern Summit !
Most of the party went in the first group and reached the Summit at 11:15 hours followed shortly by our South African lady climber for whom Elbrus was merely to be the first of the Seven Summits. Finally at 12:15 hours the last two members of the Group reached the Summit. The differential walking paces were maintained on the descent with members of the team arriving back – exhausted but content – to the Pruit Hut between 14:30 and 16:00 hours.
Amongst a kaleidoscope of memories, what stands out about Elbrus 2007?
i) The company and companionship of the Group.
ii) The surprising number of climbers going for the Summit each day – there must have been close to 100 climbers heading fro the summit on the 7th August.
iii) The fantastic cook at the Pruit Hut who produced gourmet Russian cuisine on two small burners.
iv) The ecological disaster that Elbrus will become in the next 10 years unless the Russians and visitors learn to respect and protect their environment.
v) The fact that after 10 years of a free market economy most Russians are slow to smile!
Now back in Ireland and back to normality we remember the good – rather than the tough – parts of the climb and ask ourselves “what’s next?”



