Fund-raising

April 10 - trek day 6

Today was spent resting in Pheriche as per the trek schedule and everyone is well.  
However. it's snowing and very cold.   Last night's temperature  was minus 10degC (14degF) - in their rooms!!     In a tent it's usually about 5degC warmer than outside and Desh figures last night's outside temperature must've been at least -20degC.    The guys can not believe it was so cold!    Pity about those sleeping bags, boys!

We'd not even spoken for a minute when the sat link was lost (damn clouds!) and we couldn't reconnect so, in the absence of further news of today, here's something I found on the internet.   Written in 2005 by someone called Willi Prittie about this section of the trek:

"Pheriche: There is something about trekking this stage to Everest Base Camp. Below here, we were all looking at and enjoying the mountains. On this stage, something changes and from here on up we are fully immersed in the highest mountains on earth. Everywhere we look, every turn of the trail reveals yet a new vista, a mountain or range, any one of which is stunning. The cumulative effect is hard to describe to someone who has never been here, but for some of us it is nothing less than life-changing.
This morning was perfectly clear and we enjoyed views of Everest, Nuptse, and Lhotse seemingly close enough to reach out and touch. As our minds reached out to encompass this challenge in front of us, we paid a visit to Lama Geshe, the head lama of the Pangboche Gompa. Lama Geshe performed a truly wonderful puja for us, and forced our minds to encompass much more. He asked for our protection and safety on the mountain, and in turn asked us to be respectful of the mountain while on our pilgrimage to the top. He also asked that we think about the world in general while on our lofty summit, and think about world peace and all mankind living together in harmony with each other and with the natural world. This was a very moving ceremony for all of us.
We walked into Pheriche at 4,300 meters (just under 14,000 feet) around mid afternoon to building cloud and mist. We were welcomed with the usual comfortable tea house and a great spread for afternoon tea from our cook staff.
As I write this, many members are playing chess and card games, or just relaxing around the heating stove (which burns dried yak dung, not wood, which puts out an amazing amount of heat)."

In this instance Puja is the ceremony performed to ask the goddess Sagarmatha ("mother goddess of the earth", nepali for Everest) for safe passage and is performed specifically for those intending to climb Everest.

These pics were taken of the Pheriche valley with the town visible in both.  The one is the left is  arriving in Pheriche and on the right is looking back at the village when on the way to Lobuche,  The silvery river flowing through the valley is the Dudh Khosi which the trekkers have, more or less, been following and which they have crossed many times on those suspension bridges that Kelvin so enjoys!
Vegetation is sparse, low and scrubby at this altitude  - the forest having been left behind on the lower slopes.

This pic, taken in the same area, shows the terrain our trekkers are now experiencing  -  just add snow!

Another sat phone call!
Well - having written all that Desh has just called me again!   During supper the sky cleared so she decided to try one more time.   Here's today's news from the trek:
Planning for Revenge!
At dinner last night Peter and Daley devised a plan for taking revenge on Deshun.   Here's how it goes:   they'll take her to Melbourne and strap her to a treadmill set to both the highest speed and the steepest incline.  Hitting her on the head at regular intervals with a frying pan (till it hurts like an altitude headache), they'll feed her all the things she hates until she's ill and then they'll feed her more of it.   At night she'll sleep outside without a sleeping bag or any bedding, with the garden sprinklers on and when she's really cold they'll bundle her into the freezer so that she gets even colder.    And, of course, they're going to charge her for the experience!
We did say it was going to be "rustic", boys!
Resting in Pheriche
Today was mostly spent lazing about, reading, chatting and keeping warm.   Peter brought along a small set of speakers for his iPod so everyone was able to listen to music and just "chill".  
A UK research group, Xtreme Everest,  are also currently in Pheriche and will be in base camp until May 2007.   Click here for more information on this very interesting project.
Tomorrow's plans
In the morning they will move from the Mountain Rescue Lodge to the new, and more comfortable, White Yak.   They will also do a 2hr acclimatisation hike after which they'll return to Pheriche for the 2nd day of rest there as per the schedule.
Snippets
Kirsty's been raising some money to raise money for her Ugandan refugee work by selling massages to other trekkers.   She's the skinniest things on two legs and Daley can not believe that she eats all the time.   You have to see it to understand!
Daley's taught Peter 3 dance moves which, he insists, are sufficient for all circumstances and they met up with a Scotsman wearing shorts and a beanie and who thinks Pheriche's cold - even though he's supposedly spent time in Antarctica!
As a result of the dance lesson Daley's now being called "Hitch" (as per the Will Smith movie), Peter is "Sweet Pete", Jan's still "Papa" and Kelvin is Riley, Melvin, Andrew .... or whatever else comes to mind.
An experience such as a trek tests one on all levels every day  -  physically, mentally, emotionally, spiritually.   In spite of being way out of their respective comfort zones our trekkers are doing well and are adapting to life trekking through the Himalayas.
Desh says their spirits are good and today was mostly headache free which shows they're all acclimatising well.

There'll be more news from the trek tomorrow.

April 9 - trek day 5!

Reception wasn't great due to heavy cloud cover but I managed to hear her for a few minutes before everything went digital and we couldn't reconnect.   Here's the news I got:

The night at "Paradise Lodge"
The rooms were really tiny (just big enough for a double-decker bunk bed) and it was very stuffy so, even though they slept for 8 or 9 hours, they woke feeling tired and unrefreshed.
Nonetheless they were happy to leave Deboche and head for Pheriche.
The day's trek
They left Deboche (3 750m) and trekked to Pheriche (4 243m - 13 900ft).  It took about 6 hours and, although a steep climb, it was a fairly good, slow amble.   Most of the group are experiencing dull altitude headaches but nothing serious or out of the ordinary.   Deshun is  seeing to it that they drink the required 4-5lts of water a day and she says that, in this respect, Daley is the one that needs the most reminding!
Lots of yak trains and lots of trekkers.   Judging from the number of climbers among the trekkers it seems as though Base Camp will be huge this year.   Base Camp (see pic below) is actually just an area at 5 360m (17 600ft) where the climbers pitch their tents and begin the weeks of major acclimatisation necessary to climb Everest.  Once the season's over there's nothing there.

The helicopter wreck in the pic was an attempt to rescue a climber in very bad weather and happened the day after Desh left base camp, having been forced off the mountain by storms, in 2003.

Pheriche
(this pic is of the clinic in Pheriche that was mentioned in a previous update)
Of course the higher you climb the colder it gets and the days are definitely colder now than when they started in Lukla.   Desh phoned me from Pheriche at about 1800 Nepali time and the temperature  was 2degC - in her room!!   Peter's sleeping bag is only rated for -5degC and Kelvin's has no rating at all.   They must've missed the part in the gear list where it says "make sure your sleeping bag is rated for -15degC" and the reminder included in the countdown tip on 27 March!   Really, boys!    Anyway Desh says that the lodges they will be staying at from now on will provide blankets, etc.  I'm sure they can also pile everyone's clothes and backpacks, etc, on top of them to keep warm.
They managed to book in to the Mountain Guides Lodge in Pheriche.  Desh was hoping for the new section of the Himalaya Lodge but it was full.   Remember they're a day ahead of schedule so aren't using the trek accommodation bookings made before the trek.
She says their Pheriche lodging is heaps better than the (mis-named) Paradise Lodge in Dengboche and would rate somewhere between the old and new sections of the Himalaya Lodge.
She is absolutely amazed at the amount of development that's taken place on the trek route since she was last there in 2003.   There are signs of new lodges, etc in almost all the villages and there's talk that Gorak Shep (the village closest to Base Camp and which could previously accommodate less than 20 people) has a new lodge for 80 guests.

In case you're thinking that our trekkers are surviving on yak cheese and mouldy biscuits
here's a pic off the internet of trekkers having breakfast at Himalaya Lodge.

Sadly our call was cut before I could hear any of the comments from the team or discuss tomorrow's plans - I didn't even have a chance to wish her for her birthday!   I'll let you know as soon as I hear anything more.

April 8 - trek day 4!

Change of itinerary 
Everyone was feeling strong after the rest day yesterday so a decision was made to skip the day hike today (from Namche to Khumjung and back) and, instead, to walk to Thyangboche  (Tengboche) which is the next destination in the itinerary.                                      
Of course, being a day ahead of schedule meant that no accommodation had been booked in Thyanboche (pictured here) for tonight so they sent a Sherpa ahead to arrange the necessary.  
When the group arrived in Thyangboche they learned that there was not even a manger to be had for the night so they settled into a warm bakery there (is it just me or is this becoming a habit?) while a Sherpa went off to seek lodging in Deboche, about 25mins walk away.    Deshun says they passed the time in the bakery eating very chewy Danish pastries of uncertain vintage until the Sherpa returned with the good news that he'd booked them into the Paradise Lodge (!) in Deboche.

Today's trek
Desh says the day was a lovely, comfortable and                                                           
fairly easy hike with just one steep hill but, having already conquered Namche Hill, our trekkers managed it just fine.   The day was warm and the scenery beautiful and, just after climbing out of Namche, they rounded a bend in the trail and got their first breathtaking view of Everest and Amadablam (the twin-peaked "Mother and Pearl necklace" and, arguably, the most beautiful mountain in the world  -  see pic).    A huge plume of snow was blowing off the summit of Everest and, having fallen prey to Everest's storms on a 2003 summit attempt, Desh estimates that the wind up there would've been around 160kph.   The rest of the hike was through high rural landscape with gorgeous views.   Lots of trekkers en route as well as numerous yak trains.   At one point 2 yak trains passed each other - one going up, the other down.   One yak, part of the ascending train, saw an opportunity and quickly joined the descending animals.   The herder was less than impressed but eventually, after much shouting and fuss, managed to get it to go uphill again!
A very near miss today brought home to the trekkers the possible dangers of hiking high in the mountains.  Jan (well known SA documentary maker and lovely man) was walking backwards filming Peter coming towards him when he almost stepped off the edge of a 300m drop!   Bahaktar, the lead porter, managed to grab him and, in so doing, averted a very nasty accident.
Kirsty has christened Jan "Papa Smurf" and the nickname has been adopted by the rest of the trekkers and simplified to "Papa".
Hopefully "Papa" will now be a lot more careful around cliff edges.  Perhaps he should tie himself to other members of the group!
They are now quite close to the snow line and the warmth of the early part of the day quickly gave way to an evening temperature of around 0degC.

Paradise Lodge - Deboche
On arriving at Paradise Lodge they quickly discovered why it wasn't fully booked.   Paradise it certainly ain't!   In Kelvin's words "it's the s**thole of humanity!".   They are housed in what appears to be a fairly rickety, plywood shack.   Jan is trying to get everyone to co-ordinate their movements because the entire structure moves when anyone inside does!   There are bunkbeds in rooms the size of cubicles and, as a result, they're getting to know each other rather better than they may otherwise have wished!
Anyway, even if the accommodation isn't great, Deboche, at around 3750m altitude, is 100m lower than Thyangboche so a good location for overnight rest.

Tomorrow's route Unfortunately our call today was cut short (what's new!) so I wasn't able to ask about tomorrow's plans.   Assuming they remain 1 day ahead of schedule they'll leave Deboche in the morning and head for Pheriche.   The main medical centre on the trek Pheriche's hospital was built by the Japanese in 1974 and is the highest hospital in the world.   Run by the HRA (Himalayan Rescue Association) every season it is staffed by doctors from around the world whose interest is, literally, in high altitude medicine.   Our trekking group will attend one of the daily lectures offered there on acclimatisation, symptoms and treatment of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), etc.   The hospital is entirely self funding and it is customary for visitors to make a donation.
Interestingly, this year a medical team will be stationed in Base Camp for the duration of the climbing season to conduct research on the use of drugs like Warfarin in the prevention and treatment of AMS amongst Everest climbers.
There was no internet connectivity in Pheriche when Desh was there in 2003 but we've heard a rumour that this may have changed.   I hope so because then we'll receive more pics of the trek.   
I've used file stock for today's update and this pic of yaks and herder is typical of what our trekkers are seeing every day.

Today's comments from the group
WIth the exception of Jan's terrifying narrow escape our trekkers thoroughly enjoyed today and are in very good spirits.  Here are their comments:
Jan:   "You are so easily lulled into believing that it's a slow meander through a park.   Today I was very lucky but it can be dangerous and one wrong step can kill you!"
Peter:   "Today I laid eyes on the most beautiful scenery I've ever seen!"
Kirsty:  "I am absolutely happy.   I feel like we're in a Monty Python Everest movie!"
Daley:   "That first view of Everest was absolutely awesome!"
Kelvin:  "Great scenery today, a nice climb.   Awesome mountains.   Sadly today ended at (so-called) Paradise Lodge and I know for a fact that tonight my dogs have better accommodation than we do!"    [apparently Kelvin insisted that I should mention the bit about the dogs!]
Desh:    We're were all quite shocked at Jan's narrow escape and are so thankful that Bahaktar managed to stop him from falling.   Otherwise we all seem to be coping quite well with the altitude.   Today's scenery was really very beautiful and we all had a good day.

Look out for tomorrow's update and I look forward to seeing your comments posted on our website!

Pics from Nepal!

Welcome to Nepal!  Deshun meeting Daley                   Kelvin, Peter and lots of yeti feet!
& Kelvin           

The trekkers stayed here in Phakding after trekking from Lukla on Day 1.

April 7 - trek day 3!
Resting in Namche Bazaar
Today the trekkers spent a relaxing day in Namche Bazaar.   The Panorama Lodge is at the top of Namche so they wandered down into the village and spent some time relaxing at the bakery and where (as I suspected!) a chocolate cake was bought for Desh's birthday.
She's having a great birthday weekend!   The guys on the trek "upgraded" her accommodation to a double en suite room for the weekend and when she called me today at around 1830 Nepali time they were all about to begin the celebrations!

Reflecting on trek day 1
Due to the heavy cloud cover the sat phone communication has not been great and today was the 1st day that Desh has been able to email me.   She said that they were picked up at the hotel in Kathmandu at 0530 on Day 1 but had a 2hr wait for the flight to Lukla.   Daley took one look at the twin-engined Yeti Airlines [anyone ever heard of them?] and was convinced it would never get into the air!   It did and they landed at an overcast Lukla and set off on foot for Phakding,
At the end of day 1 these were the comments from the trekkers:
Daley:    A nice warmup.  Ask me again tomorrow!
Peter:     A lot more scenic than I thought it would be.
Kelvin:    I quite liked it when the ground stopped moving!
Desh:     Apart from Dehli-belly it was a nice day
Jan:        Nice to be back.  Enjoyed the walk!
Of course they had not yet seen Namche hill.    In fact Desh's diary for that day ends with " ...and tomorrow the big hill to Namche!".

Reflecting on trek day 2
In this email Desh starts by warning that high altitude affects her spelling - and goes straight on to say they crossed several suspension "brodges"!   One crosses the Dudh Khosi several times in this way and some of the bridges are 100m or so above the river.   Kelvin coped admirably even though he is not happy at heights.  Well done, Kelvin - I think I'd still be hesitating at the first one!
Then they got to the dreaded hill and these were the comments at the end of day 2:
Kelvin:    "Having been badly dressed Pete saved me with his dri-fit T-shirt.   What started off as a nice steady walk became a nightmare as we crisscrossed the most dreadful wire suspension bridges across the Dudh Khosi".
Jan:        "I cursed the architect who decided to build the Panorama lodge at the very top of Namche Bazaar!   I was only kept going by the chatter of Peter and Kelvin.   Their constant dry humour at my back is what got me up that hill".
Peter:    "It's the hardest thing I've done in my life!   To do that [trek/climb] for 8 straight hours on a piece of yucky yak cheese on toast gave me an enormous sense of accomplishment!"
Daley:    "Today we finished at 3 404m.   It's the highest I've ever been but in this place it's insignificant!   I feel dwarfed by these mountains".
Deshun:  "Today we ascended almost 1000m (3280ft) in altitude and are in cloud, with poor light - not great for photography.   We're happy to have reached Namche and are looking forward to resting tomorrow.

Coping with the altitude
Trekkers often experience dull headaches as the body struggles to cope with decreasing oxygen levels.   Our group slept at the very top of Namche Bazaar last night and going down into the village today would have helped with the acclimatisation process.   Keeping well hydrated is also very important which is why we continually reminded the trekkers to drink 4-5lt of water every day for the 8days prior to meeting in Kathmandu.   Deshun is making sure that they continue to do so on the trek.
They are currently at around 3 450m (11 300ft) and to provide a bit of perspective here are some interesting facts:
- the highest mountain in South Africa (Drakensberg) is 3 482m (11 400ft)
- Kosciuszko, Australia's highest peak, is 2 228m (7 300ft)
- Ben Nevis is Britain's highest mountain at 1 334m (4400ft)
The highest point on the trek, Kala Pattar 5 643m (18 500ft) is another 8 days trekking away so they will have plenty of time to trek slowly, rest lots, drink lots of water.

Funny things happen in Namche Bazaar!
This morning, while they were relaxing at the bakery, a woman came in wanting brown wholewheat bread.   The guys saw her but, although she heard the exchange, Desh took no notice and carried on reading the newspaper.   Later they returned to the lodge and, on hearing Daley say "aren't you the woman who was trying to get brown bread at the bakery?" Desh turned around to find that it was Kirsty!  
So now the group is complete.   We're so happy and relieved that Kirsty has arrived safe and sound in Namche having trekked solo for 12 days from Jiri!    Don't ask!
High altitude massages
She's a physiotherapist and prompty promised the each member of the group a half hour massage in Namche.   After the ordeal of the past couple of days I'm sure they're looking forward to that!
Day hike to Khumjung
Tomorrow they hope to leave Namche at around 0800 for a day hike to Khumjung.  This is another typical acclimatisation day:  from Namche they will ascend to Shyangboche (3 720m), and walk down to Khumjung at 3 514m.   After climbing back up to Shyangboche they will return to a lower altitude (Namche Bazaar) for the night.

There will be more trekking news tomorrow.

April 6 - Trek day 2!

The trail this morning
This morning our trekkers left Phakding (altitude 2640m) at 0720 and followed the trail up through the Dudh Khosi (Dudh river) valley pictured here.  For a while walked up the canyon, stopping for lunch above the river and, according to Desh, it was a fairly comfortable amble for the first half of the day.   Hiking through forest, crossing a few suspension bridges, they met other trekkers on their way up to Everest and some on their way back down.   They overtook a small yak train (about 7 or 8 yaks) on the narrow trail and managed to stay just ahead of them for a while but ,eventually, the group had to admit defeat and allow the yaks to go ahead - a sensible decision because safe acclimatisation requires that the trekkers take things slowly.  
It's still quite early in the Everest trekking/climbing season and Deshun says that much of the traffic on the trail is supplies being taken up to the lodges and teahouses en route in anticipation of the influx of guests in the weeks to come.
Sagarmatha National Park
Between Phakding and (the exotic sounding) Namche Bazaar all travellers must register at the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park.   Sagarmatha ("mother goddess of the earth") is the Nepali name for Mt Everest.   Most of the trek, including Mount Everest itself, is within the park as are many of the villages that the trekkers will pass along the way - Namche Bazaar (where they will spend the next 2 days), Khumjung (day trip on Sunday), Khunde, Thame, Thyangboche, Pangboche and Phortse.
Climbing Namche hill!
The major hurdle of the day was the hill leading up to Namche Bazaar.  The village is located on a very steep slope and it took them about two and a half hours to get up the hill  -  a combination of rough "stairs", stones, shale.   Peter, apparently, called his family and said it was the hardest thing he'd ever done.   Deshun says that quite a lot of work has been done cutting "stairs" out of the hill since she was last there in 2003 but she's not sure whether it makes the climb easier, or worse!
Namche Bazaar - 3 446m (picture: looking down on to Namche Bazaar)
They all made it and arrived in Namche Bazaar at around 1530, exhausted and footsore but safe.   The next 2 days are acclimatisation and rest days.   Tomorrow (Saturday) will be a rest day so they'll amble about the village and just take things very easy.  On Sunday they will hike to Khumjung, returning to Namche for the night, and will then leave on Monday morning for Thyanboche.
Even though they did not cover a great distance today the group ascended 806m in atitude and that would have contributed considerably to their difficulties on Namche hill.  In fact, as the crow flies, the distance from Lukla to Kala Pattar (just outside Base Camp) is only about 55km (35miles).  The trekking route is longer but it is the decreasing levels of oxygen on the climb, not the distance covered, that has the greatest affect on the body.
Namche Bazaar is a busy place and is one of the main trading centres in the region.  There are several Western restaurants, internet cafes and a particularly good (and legendary) German bakery.   Deshun says that the Panorama Lodge, where they are staying, has undergone considerable improvement since she was last there.
When she called me (at about 2030, Nepali time) the temperature was around 9degC and the new, hot shower facilities at the lodge are most welcome.
Unfortunately the call was, again, cut short but the group is in good spirits and they've decided to celebrate Desh's birthday in Namche tomorrow instead of on Monday on the trail.   I hope that bakery does a good chocolate cake!
Trek photos
I haven't yet received any photos from the trek - the ones shown are from previous treks or the internet.   Hopefully they'll be able to send some via internet from Namche so keep watching this space!

April 5  -  Trek Day 1

Kathmandu - the day before the trek:  Yesterday the trekkers met in Kathmandu and spent the rest of the day sightseeing, shopping and making last minute arrangements in Kathmandu.  A taxi driver told Deshun that all drivers in Kathmandu are supposed to wear a crash helmet but nobody bothers!

Leaving on the trek - starting to acclimatise:   At 0500 this morning they made the 45minute flight to Lukla (2 860m) and began the walk to Phakding (2 640m).   The trekkers will carry their own daypacks but each trekker has a Sherpa porter who will carry their larger bag for the duration of the trek.   Sherpas are tiny (averaging 1.5m/5ft) but, as can be seen in the pic, they can carry enormous loads.  

This is a typical acclimatisation day  -  they flew to an altitude of 2 860 and started the trek with short climb before the easy descent to Phakding which, as you can see, is actually lower in altitude than Lukla.   That is the basis of safe acclimatisation: to  rest at an altitude lower than the highest point you reached during the day.
 
Lukla:  The town of Lukla (meaning "place of many goats and sheep") is built on a steep mountain slope and the landing there must've been "interesting" for the trekkers.   The runway, too, is on the slope and is very short so planes land uphill and then turn around and take off downhill.
Sir Edmund Hillary and the Himalayan Trust:  Sir Edmund Hillary (the first man to climb Everest) formed the Himalayan Trust which has built many schools, bridges, hospitals, airfields, etc and the airfield at Lukla is one of those.  Tourism has had a marked effect on the Nepali ecology but the work of the Himalayan Trust has done much to improve the lives of the Sherpa through education, health care, etc.
It's hard to imagine but there are no roads whatsoever in this area  -  the trekking route is one of the main trade routes of rural Nepal and, as the terrain is too rugged even for bicycles, yaks (and humans!) are the main form of transport.
Through Hillary's work (and the continuing work of the trust) the Sherpa community has become the most capable and efficient ethnic community in Nepal and he was made an honorary Nepali citizen in recognition of his work and love for the Sherpa people.
Our trekking group will, literally, be walking in the footsteps of Hillary and the thousand of others who have trekked to base camp either to climb Everest or simply to stand in awe before the highest point on earth.

Leaving Phakding tomorrow:
Leaving Phakding on Friday morning the trekkers will cross this bridge.   Until fairly recently the disintegrating bridge on the left had to be negotiated by anyone leaving Phakding on the trek but it has, fortunately, now been replaced by a far less terrifying option.

Approximately R2,3m is needed for the entire Seven Summits program.   
Travel, visas, climbing permits, guide fees, climbing and electronic equipment, satellite connectivity, etc.  

In addition to sponsors' messages, the work of the international Laureus Sport for Good Foundation (of which Deshun is a Friend and Ambassador) will also be highlighted.